Go BottomWhat Size is Best For This Snow Situation
 | Pete
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1999-10-15 8811
I am trying to make the classical decision of how big to buy, I don't want to be disappointed the first time I go out in the snow, that I really bought too small. On the other hand I don't want to buy too big, so as to make mowing miserable.Here is My Situation
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| Nick
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1999-10-16 8822
Go with the 4100. Good manuevability, light on its wheels for tending the lawn, yet powerful enough to handle wet snow. With this particuliar size tractor you will feel comfortable on the grade you mentioned and still be able to get into those tight spots. The decision is yours as to what you may want to do with the tractor in the future, so choose wisely. (implement options) ....
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| Don
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1999-10-16 8830
Depends on how much snow you get, but two rules I go by for snow are:1. If using blades or buckets, weight is most important and hp is not a big issue. Of the three you mention, I think this will usually point to a NH and with your type of soil I would not be concerned over being too heavy on the turf. I have similar grades and rocks, but the soil is probably a bit lighter and I have no problem with turf tires as long as I vary mowing paths slightly on the hills so the tires do not get a chance to cause permanent damage.2. If using blower (my choice), the two most important criteria are hp and hp!! Especially in the wet stuff. A good blower on a compact will handle the wet stuff with no problem once you get the hang of it. Just keep the snow moving through the chute. Only times I plug a chute are on the very rare occasion when I shear a pin. I use to have an 18hp garden tractor with a 48" single stage blower, and I spent a lot of time unplugging the chute on that so I know what you are concerned about. Look carefully at horsepower ratings at engine speeds for proper pto speed. I'm a NH owner (1520) using a front blower & a rear blade. For the blower, I wish I had more hp at times, but I also do not like the new blowers for boomers. They look too clumsy, too hard to install (have too much bolt on stuff) and it doesn't look like it will throw snow as well or as far. I think the same company builds the blower that Kubota uses as NH used on the 20 series. It works great and it's worth every penny. My lack of comments on JD is only because I'm not sufficiently familiar with the newer series and their snowblower to comment.Good Luck ....
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| Kevin M
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1999-10-16 8843
I have to agree with Don as far as moving large amounts of snow (wet or dry)a snow blower is superior to a blade.I did my 500ft drive for 10 years with an AGtractor and blade/loader combo.It took along time and every 3rd or 4th time I would have to push the banks back with the loader, a 6 ft bucket over 500fttakes awhile.Last year I bought a NH 1720 4x4, with loader and a 5ft rear blowerI can say it takes about two thirds the time to clean the snow away and i don'thave to deal with the banks.In the summer months I mow my front yard 6 acres with a 72' befco finishing mower .The 1720 (with R4s) does a fine job. In IMHO the 20 series compact is more real tractor for the money than the boomer.Take the time and check out the 20 series New Holland compacts. ....
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| PaulB
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1999-10-18 8877
Pete - I own a Kubota B1700, and it is a great machine for what it is, but I feel it would be seriously undersized for your needs. I use a loader and back blade for snow, and it works well but my driveway is 150 feet long, 300 feet if I go all the way back to the barn. The biggest blade I can pull is a 5 footer, so even my 300 feet takes a while. 1,200 feet? you would be there all day. The 2100 and 2400 would I think have similar limitations. I would think about the 2710, the new 2910, or even the L 3010 or 2500. Some will of course depend on how much money you want to spend.good luckPaulB ....
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| Pete
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1999-10-18 8879
PaulB,Thanks for the input, I used to have a 175 foot drive on my old place and my plow on the GT tractor had a time if the snow was heavy so I would be out there for every three or four inches.At the new place I have to do the same except that I am out there for alot longer, and more often (can't let it get very deep, needs to be under 3 inches on this drive or I am not going to push or blow it on some of the 8% grades I have in sections)so I look somewhat frozen when I return tot he house. It take me about hour to move the very small amounts and with the wind some of my progress is lost. But since my equipment is so small I cnnot wait till things subside.Hence my dilemma:From Kubota the B2710 and L3010, while from Deere the 4200, and from NH the TC25/29 look like they would be the best at the snow game, they are heavy enough to handle the long length of the drive.But would they be too big on the 2.5 to 3.0 clear "hard" acres I need to mow? ....
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| Pete
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1999-10-18 8880
Kevin,I mow about 2.5 to 3 acres with a 42" GT now in about 2.5 hours (only one tree on the whole thing) how long does it take you to mow the 6 acres with the 72" Befco (rear 3PH type?).I would like to know how much time I can take off the mowing with the compact, might go with th 60" as long as I can get it down to 1 to 1 1/2 hours.Thanks fo the help ....
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| PaulB
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1999-10-18 8890
Pete - this is just how I handle my situation, so it might not apply to you, but here goes. I mow my land(4 acres of lawn, 4 of pasture ) with my garden tractor, not my 1700. Why? because my land is hilly, and the Kubota scares the hell out of me on slopes. I therefore set the kubota up to be the perfect machine for snow and heavy lifting/dragging/moving of stuff, so I put on ags and don't worry about the mowing. You already have a garden tractor, so why not get the best compact tractor for the other work you have to do, and do the lawn with the old garden tractor. 3 acres takes me about 2 hours - no big deal.Just a suggestion,PaulB ....
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